This tutorial shows how to build a USB power device from the industry-standard HIROSE 4-pin connector. The purpose of the box is to be able to charge/power small cameras and cell phones, using NP-type batteries and all HIROSE 4-pin compatible connectors. All parts are readily available from the Internet:
Hirose 4-pin Female Panel Mount (Digi-Key #HR213-ND, MFG p/n HR10A7R-4S)
USB A Jack, Panel Mount or In-Line Pigtail, Red/Black Wires for DC
Data Wires (Green/White)
DC/DC Cincon Converter, 9-18V in, 5V out. (Mouser #418-EC4A01H)
This is a pigtail USB A jack, equivalent of the panel or PCB mount computer jack. We used this one because of easy hook-up/installation, but you can use any compatible product.
On the picture above you can see the wires-
Ground wire (in black shrink tubing)
Red/ black wires. Red is positive (+),black is negative (-)
Green/white wires. Data wires. For some devices they will need to be soldered together, in order to switch the device in charging mode.
The next thing was a enclosure choice; it's totally up to you. We decided to squeeze everything into the smallest box (on the left). It's easier to work with the bigger one though...
Here is the complete parts collection. CW from the top: box, DC/DC converter, pigtail USB jack, HIROSE 4-pin panel mount connector, screws. You'll need a couple more hook-up wires- red and black color (for polarity matching) and 20-22 gauge.
Close-up of the DC/DC converter. This one is from Mouser and takes 9-18V input. Part number is on schematics page. Two ceramic capacitors, wired across the input and output, serve the purpose of extra filtering/reducing interference.
This is how I did the cutout for USB mount. A mechanical part of the project is a little messy and needs some drilling, filing, measuring. The good part is - you are the one to arrange everything according to your needs/taste:
And two holes for mounting screws.
Cutout for HIROSE connector. The little notch on top was filed with a square mini-file.
All wired up, just before the final assembly. A 30 watt soldering iron will do the job. If you've never done that- go online and do some search.
That's it, install the cover, and you're ready to charge your gadgets!
The pin-out is standard for Hirose - pin 1-Ground(negative-), pin 4-positive(+) After putting it together, we decided to add optional reverse polarity protection (stuff happens...) and visual LED indicator for USB output. Details are on the USB Schematic Page.
Comments (7) for "Build a Portable USB Power Device"
1.
Hello,
You reference a schematic page in your article, is this available somewhere?
Thank you,
Jeff
Posted by Jeff on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 @ 06:24 PM
2.
This is a great project but
where is the schematic page?
Posted by Carl on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 @ 07:03 PM
3.
The schematic is linked in the article -
http://www.aimediaserver6.com/studiodaily/Studiomonthly/usbschematic.jpg
Posted by Peter Schneider on Thursday, July 16, 2009 @ 12:54 PM
4.
better fit than what I made a while back
Posted by RD on Saturday, July 18, 2009 @ 12:33 AM
5.
Great Project... If I wanted to make a 4 USB (power) connector box, what wires would be connected and in series or parallel? If you are going to build, why not go for as many as possible?
Posted by JIM on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 @ 10:33 AM
6.
Am I understanding this right that it would be a 12v cigarette adapter for the input power? What are the output specs so as to ensure that I don't overpower my devices? Also would it be possible to make the output variable with some resistors and/or a potentiometer?
Posted by Brian on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 @ 10:48 AM
7.
how about,how to build,a usb,to vcr,a/v output to computer,to record to a dvd?and save the info,and junk the tape.my laptop is a dell,vostro,1500.
Posted by marv kantorowitz on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 @ 10:55 PM
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